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When we envision the future of fashion, it's probably in the form of chrome-covered ensembles on an army of chic robots that appear more automaton than organic. But perhaps our sartorial destiny is not quite as stark as some movies would have us believe, especially if Chromat designer Becca McCharen has anything to do with it. Because even though McCharen’s forward-thinking designs are cutting-edge, the technology behind them is rooted in the most basic responses in nature: biomimetics. McCharen’s collection was inspired by Robert Irwin’s exhibit at Dia:Beacon— where Irwin separated rooms with sheer, mesh panels and fluorescent tubes. But the Chromat designer's instincts guided her towards a more natural environment.
“We were really looking at light in a conceptual art way, but we were also thinking about how light functions in the natural world with biomimicry,” McCharen told Refinery29. “We were thinking about how organisms use light to communicate, protect, and function in all different ways.”
Read on for the scoop on how McCharen created her fall 2016 collection, her diverse casting, and how she worked with Intel to bring her futuristic vision to fruition.
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To interpret biomimicry on the runway, McCharen paired up with Intel; she previously collaborated with the company for her September 2015 show.
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“Partnering with Chromat was actually an easy decision for us. Becca is very tech-forward and she is very pro-empowerment of strong women. These are two things that are very important to us at Intel,” explains Todd Harple, Intel experience engineer. “We're enabling Becca’s vision of being able to suddenly light up and turn off a garment."
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How does this work, exactly? By putting Intel Curie technology into a glove. It interprets when the hand is outstretched or clasped in a fist, enabling McCharen's models to manually turn luminescent lights on and off.
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As impressive as McCharen’s innovative designs are, we were really moved by her obvious outlook of a body-positive future, as her models were dynamically diverse on every level, instead of the typical sea of super-slim white clones that often dominate other runways
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“As fashion designers, we have the power to highlight and celebrate beauty in all different forms,” said McCharen. “For me personally, Chromat women are doing amazing things in all different fields and come from all different places. We wanted to take this opportunity to celebrate those women and have these incredible women reflected in our runway show.”
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Standout strutters included Lauren Wasser, who lost her leg to toxic shock syndrome (pictured).
Transgender model and previous America’s Next Top Model contestant Isis King also walked in the show.
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Plus-size models Sabina Karlsson and Denise Bidot opened and closed the show, respectively. McCharen’s inclusive ethos makes us wonder why all designers aren’t following her comprehensive lead.
“Well, I think it is really damaging. I don’t know if everyone can feel this way, but when you don’t see yourself reflected in the runway shows, it is really damaging,” McCharen says. "It is crazy when you feel like you are recognized, when you see people who look like you in these realms it opens up a whole new possibility in your mind. It is weird that people wouldn’t do that.”
With that type of mindset, it’s clear to us that Chromat’s future is undeniably bright.
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