If you’re a skin-care stickler, you likely believe that trends have no place in the service of caring for your complexion. Stick to what works, you might think. "Stick to what’s proven," you might say. And that perspective has its merits. Sunscreen is never a bad idea. Antioxidants will never do you wrong. And we’ve yet to hear a bad word about the long-term collagen-boosting and elastin-regenerating benefits of retinols. Of course, the thing about closing your mind to trends is that you’re also closing your mind to innovation and opportunity.
As we see it, the latest batch of skin-care trends — enhanced waters that eschew alcohol in favor of potent actives, cleansing liquids that are neither stripping soaps nor greasy oils, and cool-looking plasticized masks that don't make a mess and encourage deeper ingredient penetration — just might have some pretty serious merits. How do you know if they're right for you? Try working them in to your nightly routine. No product is one-size-fits-all and no flash-in-the-pan trend will replace real science and real results.
We’ve rounded up the most promising new innovations that we’re seeing on the market today and asked the experts how exactly they could be best used to our benefit. Because here’s one thing we can probably all agree on: Once you open your heart to change, it can be a very, very good thing.
The Trend: Micellar Water
How To Incorporate: First off, it’s important to understand what micellar water is in the first place. In short, it’s like a facial oil, only less greasy. Micelles are tiny balls of cleansing oil suspended in a soft — non mineral-y — water, explains New York City dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD.
That low-key addition of oil means that micellar water is a great hydrating and makeup-removal option for greasier complexions, but it’s also soothing on dryer skin, too. Wet down a cotton pad and sweep over your entire face, allowing the liquid that’s left behind to air-dry. The no-rinse option is an effective alternative to facial wipes when you’re too tired to fully suds up your face. “For my clients with dry complexions, a micellar water is a nice replacement for overly stripping cleansers,” says Dr. Zeichner.
Try: Simple Cleansing Micellar Water, $7.99, available at Ulta Beauty.
The Trend: Sleeping Masks
How To Incorporate: “Your face can lose a lot of moisture when you sleep,” says Dr. Zeichner. “A sleeping mask will form a breathable layer on the skin that encourages deep penetration, but also doesn’t get all over your pillow.” Most versions offer no-nonsense hydration with moisturizers like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides; others tap anti-aging actives like antioxidants or niacinamide.
In general, you’re going to want to use the thick creams in place of your regular night hydrator or treatment — some of the actives might not play well with the ingredients in your go-tos. Massage a dime-sized dollop onto clean skin, allow to dry, and hit the hay. Another important note: While these formulas don’t require immediate rinsing, your regular morning face wash will help whisk away any residue or gunk.
Try: Amorepacific Time Response Skin Renewal Sleeping Masque, $200, available at Amorepacific.
The Trend: Modeling/Rubber Masks
How To Incorporate: The one-two steps of moulding masks are fun in a Bill Nye sort of way — usually, you hand-mix a powder with an activator gel or straight-up water to get the party started — but that’s only part of the story. They’re also highly effective. Alginate, an algae extract, rubberizes in the presence of water, allowing the mask to form a bendy, evaporation-proof barrier, which enhances the penetration of actives, explains Sarah Lee, the cofounder of natural Korean beauty site Glow Recipe.
Most versions are loaded with moisturizers, meaning they’re a quenching alternative to traditional night creams, and because they only take 15 minutes max to dry, it’s not a super time-intensive addition. Try them on evenings when your skin feels parched and your everyday moisturizer just won’t cut it.
Try: Lindsay Modeling Mask Set, $11, available at Glow Recipe.
The Trend: Essences, Mists, & Splash Masks
How To Incorporate: Call them what you want to call them, we like to think of these enhanced waters as H2O 2.0. Because they’re clear and watery — not viscous, like a serum — it’s easy to think enhanced waters are wimpy. Not the case, according to Dr. Zeichner. Some contain tighteners like peptides; others, soothers like chamomile or rose; and still others yet, low-dose exfoliants like lactic acid.
“They’re unassuming, but not all of these enhanced waters are created equal,” he says. Pick one that suits your skin’s needs, then work into your daily routine (none require rinsing). Because they’re thinner than serums, they won’t pill or stick, meaning they’re suitable to layer under everyday moisturizers. However, you will want to allow them to dry fully — that’s kind of the point — before slicking on any additional products.
Try: Boscia Tsubaki Splash Mask, $38, available at Sephora.
The Trend: Blue-Light Treatments
How To Incorporate: Using blue LED lights on your face might seem super 21st century, but according to Los Angeles facialist Shani Darden, it’s not exactly new. “We’ve been using light forever on the skin. It’s just that now, the machines are advanced and they really work, so you hear about it more,” she says.
Hand-held devices or masks emit light in the low-400 nms. That’s the wavelength proven to kill the very bacteria that causes acne. “Blue light can totally clear your skin if you’re using it enough,” says Darden. Whichever device you choose, apply on clean skin and be patient and consistent — most are gentle enough to be used every-other day and rushing never served anyone. Know that they aren’t a replacement for spot treatments or exfoliants, but they’re an effective addition to a complexion-clearing routine.
Try: Silk'N Blue Acne Treatment Device, $149, available at Ulta Beauty.
The Trend: Pressed Serums
How To Incorporate: Lighter than a night cream, but heavier than a slick serum, pressed serums exist in that comfortable middle ground, explains Lee, who says they’re a great option for someone who wants an A-list skin-care routine, but isn’t here for dozens of steps.
“It’s part of the multi-tasking trend we’re seeing everywhere in Korea,” she adds. Apply after cleansing, but before layering on anti-aging active. Opt for one addresses your individual skin concerns. (Pressed serums do more than one thing well, but they’re not one-size-fits-all.) Some are formulated to deeply hydrate, others tap fermented botanicals to soften fine lines, and others are best for cooling and degreasing oily complexions. Smooth on clean skin or scoop out a little extra and use as an overnight sleeping mask, advises Lee.
Try: Blithe Crystal Iceplant Pressed Serum, $49, available at Sephora.
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